3X00 Basic install guide
Lets go over the parts you'll need. They are explained in detail below, click on one to go right to it:
1. A 3X00 engine. Well this one goes without saying. If you don't have one of these, you won't get very far in your project. The engine on the left happens to be my engine (from a 2000 buick century), it came fairly complete as far as sensors and wiring, but no accessories. They even left the ignition coils on there. You'll want to get the latest model, least mileage 3100/3400 you can get. You can find a list of available donor cars here. Remember that anything missing on your engine you'll need to supply later on. Most of the stuff you already have like a map sensors, and ignition coils, but I found it to be much neater and easier just to get an engine with these things already bolted on.
2. The second most important item on your list is motor mounts and a front bracket. You will need new rubber mounts, but the front 'mount-to-engine' bracket is different. You'll need to either get a custom steel one made up from your local shop, or you can order a pre-made one from Chris Rook (a.k.a. SixShooter, he can be reached through the 660 forums). I chose to order my mount (pictured below) from Chris, it was less expensive than having one custom made elsewhere, and I didn't need to waste time describing it to a shop. You can see it's a complicated piece, so I encourage you to save time, by ordering one from him.
Wherever you choose to get a mount, you are supposed to retain you old A/C bracket and compressor. Even if you choose not to retain the rest of your A/C components you need to keep your compressor, or get an idler pulley to go in it's place. This is required to keep the belt routing going the right way. If you try to route the belt without it, you will end up spinning your water pump backwards.
3. You'll need a throttle cable to replace the one you have, because the 3X00 engines have the throttle linkage on the opposite side from the 2.8/3.1. A throttle cable from a '95 Beretta/Corsica has the right length, and works without needing to modify the firewall. GM P/N 22638838
4. If your engine didn't come with a throttle bracket or if your engine came out of anything but a car you need to get a bracket from a 3100/3400 style car. U van, Aztek, Rendezvous style brackets won't work.
5. Radiator Hoses. The 3X00 thermostat outlets are pointed in a different direction than the old 2.8/3.1 style. You'll need a different *upper* radiator hose that will fit it. The best style to get is a *lower* radiator hose from a '99 Montana. P/N GTR-61720 $10.69 from Summit Racing. That lower hose should fit your upper radiator outlet and t-stat housing without any modifications.
Alternatively a '99 Grand Am GT hose works as well. This hose has the right bends needed to make a good fit, but it is a little too long. You'll have to trim 2-3 inches off of each end, in order to make it work. It's important to only cut small amounts at a time, then test fit it for the proper size. If you cut too much, you'll need to to get another one.
The lower radiator hose on all 2.8's and some older 3.1's has issues with the new 3X00 timing chain cover. The older style was 1.5", while the new water pump inlet is 1.25" You'll need a hose from a '92-'94 V6 J.
6. The newer style '95+ EGR valves won't work with your stock ECM. If you have emissions testing in your state you will be required to attach an EGR valve to your plenum. Currently JBP offers an adapter for '95-'99 manifolds. If your using a '00+ engine, the EGR valve plenum port is different, and you will have to make your own adapter. Feavs (www.feavs.com) is the only person I have known to make one. Look towards the bottom of his page.
7. The new CS130D alternators used on the 3X00 engines have a different mounting style than the CS130 used on the old 2.8/3.1. This new mounting locates the new alternator entirely too close to the heater fan. When your engine flexes under load the new style alternator will hit the heater fan. To remedy this you have to use your old alternator and bracket. The lift bracket that came with your new engine is just a little too wide to allow the old CS130 alternator to fit. You can either use your old lift bracket or grind about 1/8" of metal off the new one. IMO, the new bracket looks better, so I chose to grind mine down.
8. The old style 2.8/3.1 motors had the ignition coils directly under the front exhaust manifold. (yea, it's a very bad place to have them) The 3X00 have the ignition coils bolted to the backside of the intake plenum. The ignition module and coils are exactly same as your old ones, but the mounting bracket is different. If your new motor didn't come with them bolted on already, you'll need to find a custom place to mount your old one, or go find a newer style bracket. Either way, you need to keep your ignition module and coils mounted to a bracket (new or old style), because it acts as a heatsink for the ignition module. Without one, your ignition module will burn up *very* quickly.
9. If your new motor didn't come with the MAP sensor still bolted on, you need the MAP-Plenum-FPR hose. It's one piece. The wiring for the map sensor will also have to be lengthened if you use the new style.
10. Steel power steering line. Since you have to use your old CS130 style alternator, and bracket, you'll need to get a different steel power steering line that runs from the pump to the pressure hose. The one that works best is from a '94 Grand AM with a 3100. It has the right bends for a good fit around your old style alternator. Unfortunatly, this line won't directly fit with certain P/S pumps that have an electronically variable output (EVO) solenoid. Those pumps have an output that is at a 90* angle from the typical output. In that case you could rebend the line, but you run the risk of making it weak and having it break on you.
11. You absolutely need a 3X00 style power steering pump. If (like me) your engine didn't come with one, you have to get a new one. Older 2.8/3.1 style pumps have a wider body and reservoir, and won't fit in the new motor. It's covered in more detail here. (Question 11)
12. The Gen III exhaust manifolds use a different down pipe and flange. Your stock down pipe will no longer work, so you'll have to find one from a 3X00 equipped car identical to the one your engine came from. GM sells them brand new, but only with the Cat-converter attached, making it very expensive. We suggest picking one up used. Since the manifold's outlet points pretty much at the firewall, you'll need to have the downpipe you get modified to fit the car. You should tie up your shift cables, there have been reports of them sitting too close to the downpipe and getting burned.
13. The 3X00 engines use a single 3 wire CTS in the lower intake manifold. If you decide not to use it, you'll will have to drill and tap the rear cylinder head for your cluster gauge. Drill a hole in the same location as on the old Cylinder head. Use a 1/4 pipe thread tap to cut the threads. The other CTS goes in the lower intake manifold for the ECM. We are searching for vehicles that use the 3 wire sensor. A couple cars with them are the '00-'02 Buick Century, and the '93 2.2 MPFI Cavalier.
The 3 wire sensor pins are:
A: Low reference
B: ECT sensor signal
C: ECT gauge sensor signal
14. Coolant hoses and pipes were changed year to year, and model to model. You need the water pump bypass pipe, and the appropriate intake manifold to heater core pipe. The front cover's water pump bypass hole has changed diameter and bolt hole location on the 3X00 engines. 3.1 engines had two bolts, and 3X00 engines only have one. For older J-bodies that used the heater core line along the passenger frame rail and across the back of the firewall, ditch this hose and use the new bypass pump hose. Your heater core hoses may not work with the new stock 3X00 parts. Some new bulk rubber hose will fix this. The 2.8 used a radiator cap on the filler neck above the water pump. 3X00 engines do not have a provision for this. You will *need* to get a reservoir with a radiator cap on it from a '92-'94 J body.
15. Ok, I decided to dump everything else here since they don't really require a lot of explanation.
Use a stock size serpentine belt. P/N GTR-4060705 $23.39 from Summit Racing
The fuel rail will have to be modified to allow connection to the stock body side pipe connections. This can be done with a set of steel "union" pipe connections 3/8ths for the supply line, and 5/16ths size for the return line. I believe they are also known as brass compression fittings. Do not over tighten them, it's just as bad as leaving them loose. Test for fuel leaks.
Multec 2 injectors that are used on 00+ 3X00 engines have compatibility issues with your stock ECM, and will run your engine *excessively* rich. Your old injectors fit on the new fuel rail without any problems, so use them. Any of your body side vacuum lines can attach to the plenum, it has plenty of vacuum ports. Some may need to be capped. The knock sensor is on the front of the engine now, you'll need to lengthen the harness to reach it. Your new engine requires your old engines oil filter adapter for proper location of the oil filter.
If there is anything that I missed, just let us know in the 660 forum, and I will be sure to add it here.